ʻO Ama Dablam Expedition

Nā Ala Piʻi ʻo Ama Dablam

Hoʻomaka ka huakaʻi ʻo Ama Dablam mai Kathmandu mai, a lele mākou i Lukla. Piʻi mālie mākou i luna o ka puʻu ma Phakding. Komo mākou i ke kapikala Sherpa, ʻo Namche Bazaar. A laila hiki mākou i ka Khumbu Glacier, iho i lalo i Dingboche, a neʻe aku i Chukung Valley a me ke kahua hoʻomoana ʻo Imja Tse. Ma hope o ka pō ma ke kahua hoʻomoana o Ama Dablam, aia ma ke kualono komohana hema, hoʻāʻo mākou e piʻi i ka piko. Aia ʻo Ama Dablam he 3 mau kahua hoʻomoana ma mua o ka hiki ʻana i ka piko. Hele mākou a hiki i ke kahua hoʻomoana 1 (5,700 m) ma nā alahele, hoʻomaʻamaʻa, a laila hoʻi i ke kahua hoʻomoana. He hau a pahee ka hapa nui o ke kahua hoʻomoana 2 a me ke kahua hoʻomoana 3. Hoʻomaʻamaʻa mālie mākou i ke kaiapuni.

ʻAʻole i ʻoi aku ka loea o ka piʻi ʻana mai Camp 3 a i ka piko, a ma hope o ʻelua pule, piʻi mākou i ka piko a laila hoʻi i ke kahua hoʻomoana. I ko mākou hoʻi ʻana i ko mākou wahi noho, ua ʻike mākou i ke awāwa kupaianaha ʻo Chukung, nā kauhale, a me ka pae mauna ʻo Himalayan, me Mt. Everest (8848m), Mt. Makalu (8481m), Mt. Lhotse (8516m), a me nā mauna ʻē aʻe he nui. Pau ka huakaʻi i ka wā e lele ai mākou i Kathmandu mai Lukla.

Ke kumukūʻai e piʻi ai iā Ama Dablam

ʻO ke kumukūʻai o ka piʻi ʻana i Ama Dablam he 30 lā ma kahi o $6,500. Me ka nui o nā palapala ʻae, nā lako, a me nā limahana, ʻaʻole makepono ka piʻi mauna. ʻO ke kumukūʻai e komo pū me ke alakaʻi, ka mea lawe ukana, ka meaʻai, ka hale noho, ka lele, a me ka palapala ʻae. Pono paha ʻoe i $500 hou aʻe no nā lilo pilikino a me nā ʻōlelo aʻoaʻo. ʻOiai ʻaʻole kēia he piʻi mauna maoli akā he piko hoʻomaʻamaʻa, ʻoi aku ka haʻahaʻa o ke kumukūʻai o ka piʻi ʻana iā Ama Dablam ma mua o nā piko ʻē aʻe ma luna o 8,000 mika.

Ka Paʻakikī o ka Piʻi ʻana o Ama Dablam

Ka Paʻakikī o Ama Dablam

Aia kekahi mau pilikia koʻikoʻi mai ke kahua hoʻomoana a i ke kahua hoʻomoana ʻo Ama Dablam 1 (5800M). Pono nā mea piʻi e hele ma luna o nā pōhaku ʻino ma hope o ka hōʻea ʻana i ke kahua hoʻomoana 1. Ma hope koke iho o ke kahua hoʻomoana 1, i kou hele ʻana i ke kahua hoʻomoana 2, aia kahi laina paʻa. Pono nā mea piʻi e hāpai i kā lākou mau ʻeke kua, no ka mea, ʻaʻole loaʻa nā mea lawe ma ʻaneʻi. Mai ʻaneʻi aku, lilo ka piʻi ʻana i mea paʻakikī a me ka pilikia. Nui nā pilikia ma mua o ka hiki ʻana i ka Hale Melemele.

Aia ʻo Ama Dablam Camp 2 (6100 m) ma kahi kiʻekiʻe loa o Yellow Tower, he piʻi kū pololei 80-90-degere. He neʻe kū pololei 60-70 kapuaʻi ma kahi pae 20,000 kapuaʻi, ʻaʻole ia he mea maʻalahi. Hiki i kahi hoʻomoana 2 ke hoʻokomo i kahi o 7 a 8 mau halelewa i ka wā piha kanaka. ʻAʻole maʻalahi ka loaʻa ʻana o kahi kūpono loa.

E piʻi i ke kahua hoʻomoana ʻo Ama Dablam 3 (6400M) ma luna o ka hau a me ka hau e hōʻiliʻili ana i ka wā puna. Hoʻomaka ke ala ʻo Ama Dablam ma ke kua o ka hale kiaʻi, a pono nā mea piʻi e hele ma waena o ka hau a i ʻole nā ​​poloka pōhaku. Ma hope o ke piʻi ʻana i luna, aia nā pilikia kūikawā no ka hāʻule ʻana o ka pōhaku, ʻoiai ke hele mua nei nā hui piʻi ʻē aʻe. Hiki ke hāʻule nā ​​pōhaku e like me ka nui o ka pōpeku (pōpeku), no laila pono ka noʻonoʻo hou ʻana. ʻO ka neʻe ʻana i luna he 70-80 degere kū pololei e hiki ai i ka lihi paʻa. ʻAʻole kū ka hapa nui o nā hui ma ke kahua hoʻomoana ʻekolu; hele lākou i ka piko o Ama Dablam.

Hiki ke loaʻa nā kaula paʻa hou a kahiko, ʻoiai ke neʻe nei i ka piko. Ma lalo o ka pyramid, aia ka piko kiʻekiʻe loa ma luna o nā pali ʻo Dablam. He hele wāwae maʻalahi ka piʻi ʻana i luna ma nā pali he 55- a 65-degere. Hiki iā ʻoe ke waiho iā ia i loko o 10+ mau hola, me ka manaʻo mai Camp 2 mai. He ākea a ākea ka piko o Ama Dablam. I ke kakahiaka lā, ʻike ʻia ʻo Mt. Everest, Makalu 8463M, a me Baruntse 7129 m.

Ua hapa kou piʻi ʻana i kēia manawa. He pololei ka iho ʻana i lalo i kahi hoʻomoana ʻekolu. Pono ʻoe e hoʻi i kahi hoʻomoana 2, kahi a mākou e hoʻolālā ai e moe i ka pō.

Ke aniau ʻo Amadablam

He mea koʻikoʻi ka ʻike ea no Ama Dablam no ka hoʻolālā ʻana i kahi huakaʻi maikaʻi loa ma Nepal. ʻO ke aniau o Ama Dablam ke kumu o ka maʻalahi o ka huakaʻi ma ia wahi. ʻEhā mau kau like ʻole o Nepal ma nā mauna kiʻekiʻe. He ʻokoʻa nā mahana, nā mea kanu, a me nā pilikia o kēlā me kēia kau. Eia nō naʻe, he mau pono ko ka huakaʻi ʻana ma nā ʻano ea like ʻole a puni ʻo Ama Dablam.

Hooilo (Kekemapa a Feberuari): Ua uhi ʻia nā Himalayas me kahi papa hau mānoanoa, e hoʻolilo ana iā lākou i ʻoi aku ka nani ma mua o ka wā ma mua. Hoʻomaka ka hāʻule ʻana o ka hau i ka waena o Ianuali a mau a hiki i Dekemaba. Hiki i ka mahana o ka pō ma ka huakaʻi ʻo Ama Dablam ke hāʻule ma lalo o -14 degere Celsius, ʻoiai ke anuanu nei hoʻi nā mahana o ke ao (-1 degere Celsius). He ʻino loa ia i ke kakahiaka a me ka pō. He hau no ʻekolu lā, a ua uhi pinepine ʻia ke ala i ka hau i ka hopena o Ianuali a me Pepeluali.

Puna (Malaki a Mei): ʻO kēia ke kau kiʻekiʻe no ka huakaʻi hele wāwae ʻo Amadablam. Ma hope o ka hoʻoilo ʻino, hoʻomaka ka piʻi ʻana o ka mahana. I ʻApelila, ʻoi aku ka kiʻekiʻe o ka mahana o ke ao ma kahi o 5 degere ma mua o ka mahana o ka pō, ʻoiai hiki nō ke kokoke i ka hau. Eia nō naʻe, aia nō ka hau ma nā ala kiʻekiʻe i Malaki. I ka hopena o Mei, ua hōʻino nui ʻia nā wahi o luna. He paʻa loa ke aniau o ka pūnāwai ma ka huakaʻi hele wāwae ʻo Ama Dablam, me ka liʻiliʻi o ka ua a me ka hau.

Monsoon (Iune a Kepakemapa: Loaʻa ka ua i kekahi manawa ma ke kahua hoʻomoana ʻo Ama Dablam. Hoʻomaka ka monsoon i waena o Iune a hoʻomau a hiki i waena o Iulai. ʻO ka hapa nui o ka ua e ninini ʻia i ke ahiahi a me ke kakahiaka. Eia nō naʻe,

He mehana ka pō, me ka mahana ma luna o 3 degere Celsius, a ʻo ka mahana o ke ao ma kahi o 13 degere.

Autumn (Sepatemaba a Nowemapa): ʻO ka wela, ka lani mālamalama, a me nā hiʻohiʻona maikaʻi o ka Himal e hoʻolilo i ka ʻAkau i manawa kilokilo. Hoʻōki ka ua ma hope o ka monsoon, a ʻike ʻia ke ʻano. Noho nō hoʻi ka mahana ma luna o ke kiko heheʻe i ka pō. I Nowemapa wale nō e hāʻule ai ka mahana o ka pō ma Ama Dablam ma lalo o -2 degere. ʻO ka mahana o ke ao ma kahi o 4 degere.