Phiri la Everest, lomwe lili mamita 8,849, ndi phiri lalitali kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi. Limatchedwa Sagarmatha ku Nepal ndi Chomolungma ku Tibet ndipo lakhala likulimbikitsa mibadwo yambiri ya okwera mapiri. Nsonga ya Everest ndi cholinga cha ofufuza ambiri, ndipo pakapita nthawi, njira zosiyanasiyana zokwerera phiri la Everest zapangidwa kuti zikwere pamwamba pa phirili.
Ngakhale kuti pali njira zoposa khumi ndi ziwiri zomwe zalembedwa, ziwiri zokha ndi zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito nthawi zambiri masiku ano, ndipo ndi njira ya South Col ku Nepal ndi njira ya North Ridge ku Tibet.
Njira yotchuka kwambiri yokwerera ku Everest ndi South Col, yomwe imadziwikanso kuti Southeast Ridge. Imayambira ku Everest Base Camp ku Nepal ndipo imadutsa m'malo ena odziwika bwino monga Khumbu Ice Fall, Western Cwm, ndi Lhotse Face. Njirayi imapereka njira zabwino zothandizira, otsogolera ophunzitsidwa a Sherpa, komanso misasa yokhazikika, zomwe zimathandiza kuti apambane. Ngakhale kuti ili ndi anthu ambiri, imakhala yodzaza ndi anthu ambiri.
Njira yachiwiri yodziwika bwino ndi njira ya North Ridge kudutsa ku Tibet. Imathawa Khumbu Icefall yoopsa, koma imakwera phiri lalitali lotseguka munyengo yozizira kwambiri komanso yamphepo. Mbali iyi si yodzaza kwambiri ndipo ikuwoneka kuti ili patali kwambiri; komabe, ikhoza kukhala yaukadaulo pang'ono.
Kuwonjezera pa njira ziwiri zodziwika bwino zokwerera ku Everest, pali njira zingapo zovuta kwambiri, kuphatikizapo West Ridge ndi Kangshung Face. Sizimayesedwa kawirikawiri ndipo zimafuna luso la mapiri ataliatali. Kusankha njira yoyenera kumadalira zomwe munthu wakumana nazo, mtengo wake, ndi zolinga zake.
Chidule cha Njira Zazikulu
Ponena za Njira Zokwerera Mphepete mwa Everest, njira ziwiri zitha kudziwika kuti ndi zodziwika bwino zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kufika pamwamba: njira ya South Col ndi njira ya North Ridge, zomwe zili ku Nepal ndi Tibet, motsatana. Njira zonsezi zikuyimira kukwera kwakukulu kwabwino ndipo zitha kuonedwa ngati njira zachizolowezi pankhani ya okwera mapiri otsogozedwa.
Mzere wakale, womwe unali msewu woyamba womwe Sir Edmund Hillary ndi Tenzing Norgay adakwera bwino mu 1953, ndi msewu wa South Col kapena Southeast Ridge. Umayambira pamsasa wa Everest ku Nepal ndipo umadutsa mu Khumbu Icefall yoopsa, momwe okwera mapiri amadutsa pamwamba pa makwerero kupita m'ming'alu yakuya komanso pansi pa zidutswa za ayezi.
Ndiko komwe amapitilira kudutsa Western Cwm ndikukwera Lhotse Face yotsetsereka kupita ku South Col, yomwe ili pafupifupi mamita 8,000. Ndi msasa womaliza asanayambe kukankhana pamwamba.
Njira iyi si njira yaukadaulo kwambiri kuposa njira zonse zopita ku Everest Climbing Routes; imafunabe kugwiritsa ntchito mpweya wowonjezera komanso luso labwino lokwera mapiri. Ndi yopambana kwambiri, ngakhale kuti ndi yotanganidwa kwambiri, makamaka nthawi ya masika.
Njira ya North Ridge imayambira mbali ya Tibet ya phirili. Okwera phirili amanyamulidwa kupita ku Base Camp ndi magalimoto, kenako amanyamulidwa kupita ku Advanced Base Camp ndi North Col asanayende phiri lalitali, lowonekera bwino kupita pamwamba.
Ndi njira yomwe imadutsa Khumbu Icefall koma ili ndi chipale chofewa cholimba, madera amiyala, komanso sitepe yachiwiri yovuta yopita pamwamba. North Ridge ndi yokongola komanso yozizira, ndipo okwera mapiri ndi ochepa, ndipo kumverera kwake kuli kutali kwambiri.
Njira iliyonse yokwerera ku Everest ili ndi vuto lake, ndipo ndi nkhani ya zomwe munthu wakumana nazo, zomwe amakonda, komanso momwe ulendowu udzayendere.
Njira Zina Zikuluzikulu
Anthu ambiri okwera mapiri amagwiritsa ntchito South Col kapena North Ridge; komabe, awa si okhawo omwe amagwiritsa ntchito Everest Climbing Routes, chifukwa ena ndi ovuta kwambiri ndipo amayesedwa kawirikawiri. Awa ndi njira zovuta kwambiri, zoopsa, komanso zosathandizidwa. Izi zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kwa anthu odziwa bwino ntchito komanso odziwa bwino ntchito za mapiri omwe ali ndi luso laukadaulo.
West Ridge
West Ridge imaonedwa kuti ndi imodzi mwa njira zodziwika bwino zokwerera Everest, ndipo njira iyi idakwezedwa koyamba mu 1963 ndi Tom Hornbein ndi Willi Unsoeld. Ndi njira yomwe ili kumadzulo kwa phirili, yomwe ingatheke kudzera ku Nepal kapena ku Tibet.
Ku West Ridge kuli kukwera miyala yolimba, kukwera ayezi, komanso kukwera mosiyanasiyana pamalo okwera kwambiri, nthawi zambiri pamwamba pa mamita 8,000. Palibe njira zodziwika bwino komanso zingwe zokhazikika, komanso misasa yokhazikika, poyerekeza ndi yachikhalidwe; magulu ayenera kukonza chilichonse okha.
Nthaka ndi yopanda kanthu ndipo siidziwika bwino, ndipo kuyenda kumatha kukhala pang'onopang'ono kwambiri chifukwa cha miyala yosasunthika ndi chipale chofewa. Mzerewu, makamaka Hornbein Couloir, ndi gawo loopsa kwambiri. Ena mwa okwera mapiri akwanitsa kufika pamwamba pa phiri ndi kusintha kumeneku. West Ridge simalandira magalimoto ambiri pachaka chifukwa cha luso lake komanso zoopsa zake.
Nkhope ya Kangshung
Kangshung Face, yomwe ili kum'mawa kwa phiri ku Tibet, ndi njira ina yovuta pakati pa Everest Climbing Routes. Ili ndi khoma lodabwitsa, lomwe lili ndi kukwera kwakukulu pamwamba pa chisanu cha pansi pake ndipo limapangidwa ndi miyala yayitali, kenako malo otsetsereka a chipale chofewa, omwe amawonongeka mosavuta ndi zigumula.
Nkhope ya Kangshung imaonedwanso ngati imodzi mwa njira zovuta kwambiri pa Everest, chifukwa idakwera koyamba mu 1983. Malowa ndi akutali, palibe njira zambiri zopulumutsira, ndipo nyengo ingakhale yovuta. Magulu ochepa okha ndi omwe amatenga njira iyi, ndipo ochepa okha ndi omwe amafika pamwamba.
Izi ndi njira zokwera mapiri za Everest zomwe sizidziwika bwino, ndipo ndi mayeso a luso, mphamvu zakuthupi, ndi kutsimikiza mtima.
Njira Zina Zodziwika
Kupatula njira zazikulu zokwerera mapiri, palinso njira zina zingapo zokwerera mapiri za Everest, zomwe ndi zakale, zovuta, komanso zosangalatsa. Njirazi sizimatengedwa kawirikawiri ndipo sizitsatiridwa ndi magulu amalonda. M'malo mwake, amalandira anthu odziwa bwino ntchito okwera mapiri omwe amafunafuna zovuta zazikulu kuposa njira wamba.
Mkulu wa Nyumba
Kumpoto kwa phirili kuli imodzi mwa njira zodziwika bwino zokwerera mapiri za Everest, Great Couloir kapena Norton Couloir. Ndi chigwa chakuthwa komanso chotseguka chomwe chinadziwika padziko lonse lapansi mu 1980 pamene Reinhold Messner anakwera popanda kugwiritsa ntchito mpweya wowonjezera. Kukwera kwake ndi chimodzi mwa nkhani zofunika kwambiri m'mbiri ya kukwera mapiri.
Mbalame iyi ndi yoopsa kwambiri, yozizira, komanso yopapatiza, ndipo siichita bwino kwambiri m'zaka zonsezi.
Kumwera chakumadzulo (Njira ya Bonington)
Njira ina yofunika kwambiri ndi Southwest Face yomwe idakwezedwa koyamba mu 1975 ndi gulu la Britain lotsogozedwa ndi Chris Bonington. Njirayi imakwera molunjika pakhoma lalikulu, lamiyala, komanso lozizira kenako imalumikizana ndi Southeast Ridge pamwamba.
Zimaphatikizapo kukwera mosiyanasiyana movutikira pamalo okwera kwambiri ndipo sizinabwerezedwepo kangapo.
Chipilala cha Kum'mwera (Chipilala cha ku America)
Mofananamo, South Pillar, yomwe imatchedwanso kuti American Buttress, ndi njira yowongoka komanso yaukadaulo yomwe imafuna luso labwino kwambiri lokwera pamiyala yoposa mamita 8,000.
Ikutsatira mzere wolunjika kum'mwera chakumadzulo kwa phiri ndipo ili ndi madera otsetsereka, owonekera bwino omwe alibe malo okwanira olakwika. Chifukwa cha zovuta zake zaukadaulo komanso zoopsa zake zazikulu, njira iyi siigwiritsidwa ntchito kawirikawiri ndipo ndi yoyenera okhawo odziwa bwino kukwera mapiri.
Nkhope Yakum'mawa (Japan Couloirs)
Kumpoto chakum'mawa, mu 1970, okwera mapiri aku Japan adakhazikitsa mizere yotsetsereka ya ayezi yomwe tsopano imatchedwa Japanese Couloirs. Njira Zokwerera za Everest izi zimatsatira zigwa zopapatiza, zodzaza ndi chipale chofewa ku Northeast Face ndipo zimafuna luso lamphamvu laukadaulo pa ayezi ndi malo osakanikirana. Chifukwa cha ngodya zawo zotsetsereka, kupezeka kwawo komanso malo awo akutali, sizimayesedwa kawirikawiri ndipo zimakhalabe pakati pa njira zomwe sizigwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri paphiri.
Fantast Ridge (East Ridge)
Mtsinje wa East Ridge, womwe umadziwikanso kuti Fantasy Ridge, sunakwerepobe ndipo wakhala ukuopsezedwa ndi chipale chofewa nthawi zonse, zomwe zikusonyeza momwe njira zina zokwerera ku Everest zilili zoopsa.
West Face (Kumwera chakumadzulo kwa Couloir)
West Face kapena Southwest Couloir ndi imodzi mwa njira zokwerera mapiri za Everest zomwe sizikuyenda bwino kwenikweni. Ngakhale kuti anthu okwera mapiri monga gulu lotsogozedwa ndi Chris Bonington ayesapo kwambiri pa Direct Southwest Face, mizereyi ndi yosowa kwambiri.
Malo ake ndi otsetsereka, aukadaulo, komanso ali ndi njira zovuta za miyala ndi ayezi zomwe zimafuna kukwera mapiri ambiri. Magulu ochepa okha ndi omwe amatenga mbali yovuta komanso yoopsa ya phirili chifukwa ndi lolimba, ndipo pali chiopsezo chachikulu.
Chifukwa cha malo ake akutali, luso lake, komanso zoopsa zake, njira zokwerera mapiri za Everest zoterezi zitha kuyesedwa ndi anthu odziwika bwino omwe ali ndi luso labwino la kukwera mapiri.
Kuyerekeza Njira: Zovuta, Kupambana, Mtengo, Zilolezo, Kuzolowera, Magulu
Poyerekeza Njira Zokwerera za Everest, munthu ayenera kuganizira zina mwa zinthu zofunika kwambiri: kuchuluka kwa zovuta, kuchuluka kwa kupambana, ndalama, zilolezo, kuzolowera, ndi kuchuluka kwa anthu ambiri. Njira zonse ndi zapadera m'zokumana nazo zawo, ndipo kudziwa kusiyana kumeneku kungathandize okwera mapiri kusankha njira ina yomwe ikugwirizana ndi luso lawo komanso zolinga zawo.
South Col ndi North Ridge ndi zopinga zochepa pankhani ya kuvutika komanso kukwera. Ndizovuta kwambiri chifukwa cha kukwera kwake, komabe ali ndi zingwe zokhazikika, misasa, ndi zolimbitsa.
M'malo mwake, njira monga West Ridge, Kangshung Face, Hornbein Couloir, ndi Great Couloir ndi zonyanyira kwambiri. Izi ndi njira zokwerera ku Everest, zomwe zimaphatikizapo kukwera miyala yakuthwa ndi ayezi ndi njira zochepa zothandizira kapena zopanda chithandizo; motero, ndizovomerezeka kwa okwera mapiri apamwamba okha.
Ziwerengero za kupambana zimasiyananso. Chiŵerengero chapakati cha kupambana pamwamba pa msewu wa South Col ndi chapamwamba kwambiri, 60-65 peresenti. North Ridge ikubwera pambuyo pake ndi 50-55 peresenti. Njira Zokwerera Mphepete mwa Everest ndi zaukadaulo kwambiri, ndipo ziŵerengero za kupambana n’zochepa kwambiri chifukwa ndi anthu ochepa okha omwe amakwera mapiri omwe amawayesa, ndipo zopingazo n’zovuta kwambiri.
Ndi okwera mtengo kumbali ya Nepal komanso mbali zonse za Tibet. Maulendo aku South Col amawononga pakati pa USD 40,000 ndi 100,000, pomwe North Ridge imawononga pakati pa USD 35,000 ndi 85,000. Mtengo wa ndalama zolipirira chiphaso ndi pafupifupi USD 15,000 mpaka 18,000 pa munthu aliyense wokwera phiri.
Njira yozolowerana ndi yosiyana. South Col ndi mtunda wautali woyenda kupita ku msasa wa asilikali m'mphepete mwa chigwa cha Khumbu, pomwe njira ya North Ridge imapereka mwayi wopita ku msasa wa asilikali ndi galimoto, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti njirayo ikhale yaifupi.
Palinso anthu ambiri ku South Col, makamaka nthawi ya masika. North Ridge si yodzaza anthu, ndipo njira zokwera kwambiri za Everest sizimakhala zodzaza anthu nthawi zambiri.
Pansipa pali tsatanetsatane wa njira iliyonse, kuphatikizapo kuvutika kwake, kuchuluka kwa chipambano, mbali ya chilolezo, kuchuluka kwa ndalama, ndi kuchuluka kwa anthu.
| njira | movutikira | Mtengo Wopambana | Mbali Yololeza | Mtengo Wosiyanasiyana | Mlingo wa Anthu |
| South Col | Wapakati-Wapamwamba | 60 - 65% | Nepal | $40-100 | Kwambiri Kwambiri |
| North Ridge | Wapakati-Wapamwamba | 50 - 55% | Tibet/China | $35-85 | Otsika - Ochepa |
| West Ridge | Zoopsa | Kutsika Kwambiri | Nepal/Tibet | Kwambiri Kwambiri | palibe |
| Kangshung Face | Zoopsa | Kutsika Kwambiri | Tibet/China | Kwambiri Kwambiri | palibe |
| Great Couloir | Zoopsa | Zosowa Kwambiri | Tibet/China | Kwambiri Kwambiri | palibe |
Malangizo Okonzekera Ulendo ndi Ulendo Wosamuka
Kukwera njira iliyonse yokwerera ku Everest kumafuna nthawi yambiri yokonzekera komanso kudzipereka. Choyamba ndi kusankha nyengo yoyenera. Ambiri mwa okwera mapiri amayesetsa kukwera Everest nthawi ya masika pakati pa kumapeto kwa Epulo ndi Meyi, pomwe nyengo imakhala yodziwikiratu, ndipo mawindo a mapiri amakhala owoneka bwino. Njira ina ingakhale nthawi yophukira, yomwe ili ndi nthawi yochepa yokwerera.
Zilolezo zambiri, makamaka za ku Everest Climbing Routes yotchuka kumbali ya Nepal, zimatha kugulitsidwa miyezi ingapo isanafike, motero kukonzekera msanga ndikofunikira kwambiri.
Njira zoyendera zitha kudaliridwa, kutengera mbali ya phirilo. Ku Nepal, okwera mapiri amafika ku Lukla ndi ndege kenako n’kuyenda pafupifupi masiku khumi m’midzi ya Sherpa asanafike ku Base Camp. Iyi ndi njira yoyendera, yomwe imathandiza kuzolowera.
Kumbali ya Tibet, okwera mapiri amapita ku Lhasa ndipo, nawonso, amapita ku Base Camp, komwe malo okwera kwambiri amafika mwachangu. Chifukwa cha kukwera kwachangu kumeneku, ndikofunikira kukhala masiku owonjezera kuzolowera mtunda.
Mbali yofunika kwambiri ya Njira Zonse Zokwerera M'mapiri a Everest ndi kuzolowera. Mtundu wa ndondomeko yomwe imatsatiridwa ndi maulendo ambiri imakhala ndi masabata angapo omwe amasinthasintha misasa asanayambe kukwera pamwamba.
Masiku opumula amafunika kuti achepetse mwayi wodwala kwambiri m'mapiri. Kugwiritsa ntchito akatswiri otsogolera komanso thandizo la Sherpa kumapangitsa kuti ikhale yotetezeka komanso yokhala ndi mwayi wokwera phiri. Kuyerekeza mautumiki osiyanasiyana otsogolera ndikuwona kuchuluka kwa ma Sherpa omwe amathandizira wokwera aliyense kungapangitse kusiyana kwakukulu.
Zida zoyenera nazonso ndizofunikira. Okwera mapiri ayenera kukhala okonzeka nyengo yozizira, mphepo yamkuntho, ndi mpweya wochepa. Pakufunika kukhala ndi nsapato zapamwamba, zovala zotsika, makina okosijeni, ndi zida zodzitetezera. Kupanga bajeti ndikofunikiranso chifukwa zilolezo, ntchito zowongolera, zida, ndi inshuwaransi zitha kukhala madola masauzande ambiri.
Pomaliza, kukwera phiri mwanzeru ndiko kutha kulemekeza chikhalidwe ndi malamulo am'deralo. Popeza muli kumbali ya Nepal kapena Tibet, ndikofunikira kutsatira malamulo ndi kulemekeza miyambo mukayesa njira iliyonse yokwerera phiri la Everest.
Zoganizira Zachilengedwe ndi Chikhalidwe
Kukwera pa njira iliyonse yokwerera ku Everest si vuto lokha komanso ndi udindo. Phiri la Everest lili m'madera otetezedwa m'malire. Ku Nepal, phirili ndi la Sagarmatha National Park, lomwe lili pamndandanda wa UNESCO wa World Heritage. Ndi malo osungira zachilengedwe ku Tibet, Qomolangma National Nature Reserve.
Cholinga chawo chinali kuteteza zachilengedwe zomwe zili m'mapiri omwe ali pachiwopsezo komanso kupindulitsa anthu am'deralo. Anthu omwe akukwera phiri la Everest akuyembekezeka kutsatira malamulo a pakiyi, kutsatira njira zomwe zasankhidwa, komanso kutsatira malamulo oteteza zachilengedwe.
Kusamalira zinyalala kwakhala nkhani yofunika kwambiri m'zaka zaposachedwa. Nyengo iliyonse, anthu zikwizikwi okwera mapiri, pamodzi ndi othandizira, amabwera kuderali ndikusiya zinyalala ndi zinyalala za anthu, zomwe zingayambitse mavuto aakulu azachilengedwe.
Pofuna kuthetsa vutoli, Nepal yakhazikitsa zinyalala zambiri zomwe ziyenera kunyamulidwa ndi okwera mapiri kuti abwezedwe ndalama zomwe adayika. Izi ndi zomwe zimachitikanso ndi mbali ya Tibet. Njira zonse zokwerera mapiri za Everest ziyenera kukhala ndi okwera mapiri odalirika omwe amatsatira mfundo za Leave No Trace, omwe ayenera kunyamula chilichonse chomwe amanyamula ndikugwiritsa ntchito matumba apadera a zinyalala. Palinso ma kampeni oyeretsa nthawi zonse komwe zinyalala zakale zimachotsedwa paphiri.
Vuto lina lomwe likukula ndi kusintha kwa nyengo. Madzi oundana akusungunuka ndi kucheperachepera m'dera la Everest, ndipo izi zimapangitsa kuti miyala igwe komanso ayezi asakhazikike. Njira zina zokwerera mapiri monga Khumbu Icefall zikusintha chaka chilichonse, motero, njira zina zokwerera mapiri ku Everest zikuyamba kusatsimikizika. Ndi nyengo yotentha yomwe imakhudzanso momwe zinthu zilili m'misasa ya anthu okhala m'midzi komanso m'madzi.
Kulemekeza chikhalidwe n'kofunika kwambiri. A Sherpa ndi a ku Tibet amaona kuti Everest ndi malo opatulika. Anthu ambiri okwera mapiri amapita ku puja yachikhalidwe asanayambe kukwera. Kuyenda mwaulemu kumaphatikizapo ulemu wa amonke, miyambo ya anthu ammudzi, ndi midzi.
Posankha pakati pa Njira Zokwerera Mphepete mwa Everest, munthu ayenera kuganizira za momwe zinthu zingakhudzire chilengedwe komanso chikhalidwe cha ku Himalaya.
Kutsiliza
Phiri la Everest ndi mayeso omaliza a wokwera phiri aliyense padziko lonse lapansi, ndipo mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya Njira Zokwerera Phiri la Everest imapereka umboni wa momwe mayesowo angakhalire osiyana. Kaya mukuyenda njira yotchuka ya South Col ku Nepal kapena North Ridge yosadziwika bwino ku Tibet, mudzakhala ndi zochitika zosiyana panjira iliyonse.
Njira zina zimapereka zomangamanga zabwino komanso zipambano zambiri, ndipo pali zina zomwe zimafuna ukatswiri waukadaulo komanso kupanga zisankho molimba mtima. Izi ndi zina mwa kusiyana komwe munthu ayenera kumvetsetsa asanasankhe njira yoti atsatire.
The Everest Climbing Njira ndi njira zodziwika kwambiri pa Everest omwe amathandizidwa ndi mahema okhazikika, zingwe, ndi antchito akuluakulu a Sherpa, ndipo okwera mapiri ambiri amamva bwino kugwiritsa ntchito izi.
Pakadali pano, kufanana kwa njira zakale komanso zosatchuka kwambiri, monga West Ridge, Kangshung Face, kapena Great Couloir, kumatiphunzitsanso kuti Everest ikadali malo ofufuzira komanso oopsa kwambiri. Njirazi sizovuta chabe, koma zimafuna luso lapamwamba lokwera mapiri, kukonzekera bwino, komanso ulemu waukulu pa phirili.
Kuwonjezera pa zovuta ndi ndalama zomwe zingawonongedwe, okwera mapiri ayeneranso kuganizira chilengedwe udindo ndi kusamala chikhalidwe. Phiri la Everest lili m'mapaki otetezeka a dziko, ndipo lili ndi mfundo zauzimu zamphamvu kwa anthu am'deralo. Ndi udindo wa wokwera phiri aliyense kuti asapange zinyalala zambiri, kuonetsetsa kuti miyambo yachikhalidwe ikulemekeza, komanso kutsatira malamulo.
Pomaliza, pali zambiri zokhudza zisankho za Everest Climbing Routes. Zimaphatikizapo kukonzekera, kukhala wotsimikiza mtima, ndikuzindikira kukula kwenikweni kwa ulendoKukwera phiri la Everest ndi chochitika chosintha moyo chomwe chimakonzedwa bwino, kulemekezedwa, komanso kudzipereka.