Ama Dablam Expedition

Njira Zokwerera za Ama Dablam

Ulendo wa Ama Dablam umayambira ku Kathmandu, ndipo tinakwera ndege kupita ku Lukla. Pang'onopang'ono tinakwera phiri ku Phakding. Tinalowa mumzinda wa Sherpa, Namche Bazaar. Kenako tinafika ku Khumbu Glacier, tinatsika ku Dingboche, ndipo tinapita ku Chukung Valley ndi Imja Tse base camp. Titagona usiku wonse ku msasa wa Ama Dablam, womwe uli kum'mwera chakumadzulo kwa phiri, tinayesa kufika pamwamba. Ama Dablam ili ndi malo atatu ogona tisanafike pamwamba pa phiri. Tinapita patsogolo ku Msasa 1 (5,700 m) m'njira zosiyanasiyana, tinazolowera, kenako tinabwerera ku msasa. Msasa 2 ndi Msasa 3 nthawi zambiri zimakhala zozizira komanso zoterera. Pang'onopang'ono timazolowera zachilengedwe.

Kukwera kuchokera ku Camp 3 kupita pamwamba sikunali kophweka, ndipo patatha milungu iwiri, tinakwera pamwamba kenako tinabwerera ku malo ogona. Pamene tinali kuyendetsa galimoto kubwerera ku malo athu okhala, tinatha kuona Chigwa chokongola cha Chukung, midzi, ndi mapiri a Himalaya, kuphatikizapo Mt. Everest (8848m), Mt. Makalu (8481m), Mt. Lhotse (8516m), ndi mapiri ena ambiri. Ulendowu umatha pamene tinabwerera ku Kathmandu kuchokera ku Lukla.

Mtengo Wokwera Ama Dablam

Kukwera phiri kwa masiku 30 kupita ku Ama Dablam kumawononga pafupifupi $6,500. Popeza pali zilolezo zambiri, zida, ndi antchito, kukwera phiri sikotsika mtengo. Mtengo wake umaphatikizapo wotsogolera, wonyamula katundu, chakudya, malo ogona, ndege, ndi chilolezo. Mungafunike $500 yowonjezera pa ndalama zanu ndi ma tips. Popeza uku si kukwera phiri kwenikweni koma ndi malo ochitira masewera olimbitsa thupi, mtengo wa kukwera phiri la Ama Dablam ndi wotsika poyerekeza ndi mapiri ena opitilira mamita 8,000.

Ama Dablam Climb Difficulty

Ama Dablam Difficulty

Pali zoopsa zingapo zomwe zingachitike kuchokera ku msasa wa asilikali kupita ku Ama Dablam Camp 1 (5800M). Okwera mapiri ayenera kuwoloka pa miyala yolimba akafika ku Msasa 1. Mukangomaliza Msasa 1, pamene mukupita ku Msasa 2, pali mzere wokhazikika. Okwera mapiri ayenera kunyamula matumba awo a m'mbuyo, chifukwa onyamula katundu sapezeka pano. Kuyambira pano, kukwera kumakhala kovuta komanso koopsa. Pali zopinga zambiri musanafike ku Yellow Tower.

Msasa wa Ama Dablam 2 (6100 m) uli pamalo okwera kwambiri a Yellow Tower, kukwera molunjika kwa madigiri 80-90. Ndi kuyenda molunjika kwa mamita 60-70 pamlingo wa mamita 20,000, zomwe sizophweka. Msasa wachiwiri ukhoza kukhala ndi mahema pafupifupi 7 mpaka 8 nthawi yachilimwe. Sikophweka kupeza malo abwino kwambiri.

Kwerani ku Ama Dablam Camp 3 (6400M) pa chipale chofewa ndi ayezi zomwe zimasonkhana nthawi ya masika. Njira ya Ama Dablam imayambira kumbuyo kwa nsanja, ndipo okwera mapiri ayenera kudutsa ayezi kapena miyala. Mukakwera mmwamba, pali zoopsa zinazake zogwa m'thanthwe, makamaka pamene magulu ena okwera mapiri ali patsogolo. Miyala ya kukula kwa mpira (mpira) imatha kugwa, kotero kuganizira kwina ndikofunikira. Kukwera mmwamba ndi madigiri 70-80 molunjika kuti akafike m'mphepete mwamphamvu. Magulu ambiri saima pa Camp Three; amapita ku nsonga ya Ama Dablam.

Zingwe zambiri zatsopano ndi zakale zokhazikika zimapezeka, makamaka pamene mukupita pamwamba. Pansi pa piramidi, malo okwera kwambiri ali pamwamba pa mapiri a Dablam. Kukwera mmwamba kwambiri pa mapiri a madigiri 55 mpaka 65 ndi njira yosavuta kuyenda. Mutha kuitumiza mkati mwa maola 10+, poganiza kuti ndi kuchokera ku Camp 2. Nsonga ya Ama Dablam ndi yayikulu komanso yayikulu. M'mawa dzuwa likamalowa, phiri la Everest, Makalu 8463M, ndi Baruntse 7129 m limawonekera.

Kukwera kwanu kwatha pang'ono. Kubwerera ku msasa wachitatu ndi njira yolunjika. Muyenera kubwerera ku msasa wachiwiri, komwe tikukonzekera kugona usiku wonse.

Weather ya Amadablam

Chidziwitso cha nyengo ya Ama Dablam n'chofunika kwambiri pokonzekera ulendo wabwino kwambiri ku Nepal. Nyengo ya Ama Dablam imatsimikizira momwe zimakhalira zosavuta kuyenda m'derali. Nepal imakhala ndi nyengo zinayi zosiyanasiyana m'mapiri ataliatali. Nyengo iliyonse imakhala ndi kutentha kosiyana, zomera, ndi zovuta zosiyanasiyana. Komabe, kuyenda m'nyengo zosiyanasiyana kuzungulira Ama Dablam kuli ndi ubwino wake.

Zima (December mpaka February): Mapiri a Himalaya ali ndi chipale chofewa chochuluka, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti azioneka okongola kwambiri kuposa kale lonse. Chipale chofewa chimayamba pakati pa Januwale ndipo chimapitirira mpaka Disembala. Kutentha kwa usiku paulendo wa Ama Dablam kumatha kutsika pansi pa -14 digiri Celsius, pomwe kutentha kwa masana kumaziziranso (-1 digiri Celsius). Kumakhala koopsa kwambiri m'mawa ndi usiku. Chipale chofewa chimagwa kwa masiku atatu, ndipo njira nthawi zambiri imakhala ndi chipale chofewa kumapeto kwa Januwale ndi February.

Spring (March mpaka May): Iyi ndi nyengo yabwino kwambiri paulendo wa Amadablam. Pambuyo pa nyengo yozizira kwambiri, kutentha kumayamba kukwera. Mu Epulo, kutentha kwa masana kudzakhala kokwera madigiri 5 kuposa kutentha kwa usiku, ngakhale kuti kungakhale pafupi kuzizira. Komabe, mwezi wa Marichi ukadali ndi chipale chofewa m'misewu yokwera. Pofika kumapeto kwa Meyi, ngakhale madera akumtunda amawonongeka kwambiri. Nyengo ya masika paulendo wa Ama Dablam imakhala yokhazikika kwambiri, ndi mvula yochepa komanso chipale chofewa chochepa.

Mvula yamkuntho (June mpaka September: Mvula nthawi zina imagwa ku Ama Dablam Base Camp. Mvula yamkuntho imayamba pakati pa mwezi wa June ndipo imapitirira mpaka pakati pa mwezi wa July. Mvula yambiri imagwa madzulo ndi m'mawa. Komabe,

Usiku kumakhala kotentha, kutentha kwake kuli pamwamba pa madigiri Celsius atatu, ndipo masana kutentha kwake kuli pafupifupi madigiri 13.

Autumn (Seputembala mpaka Novembala): Kutentha, thambo loyera, ndi mawonekedwe abwino a Himal zimapangitsa nthawi ya autumn kukhala yodabwitsa. Mvula imasiya mvula ikatha, ndipo chilengedwe chimaonekera. Kutentha kumakhalabe pamwamba pa malo osungunuka usiku. Mu Novembala mokha ndi pomwe kutentha kwa usiku ku Ama Dablam kumatsika pansi pa -2 digiri. Kutentha kwa masana kumakhala pafupifupi madigiri 4.