Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam Climbing Routes

The Ama Dablam expedition starts from Kathmandu, and we fly to Lukla. We gradually ascend uphill in Phakding. We enter the Sherpa capital, Namche Bazaar. We then reach the Khumbu Glacier, descend to Dingboche, and move towards Chukung Valley and Imja Tse base camp. After a night at the base camp of Ama Dablam,  located at the southwest ridge, we attempt the summit. Ama Dablam consists of 3 campsites before reaching the peak. We move further up to Camp 1 (5700m) along the trails, acclimatize, and then return to base camp again. Camp 2 and Camp 3 are mostly icy and slippery. We gradually move up and adjust to the environment.

The climb from Camp 3 to the summit is less technical, and after two weeks, we summit the peak and move back to the base camp. As we drove back to our accommodation, we could see the fantastic Chukung valley, the villages, and the range of the Himalayas, including Mt. Everest (8848m), Mt. Makalu (8481m), Mt. Lhotse (8516m), and many other mountains. The journey ends when we fly back to Kathmandu from Lukla.

Cost to Climb Ama Dablam

The 30-day Climb to Ama Dablam costs about $4,500. With so many permits, gear, and workers, mountain climbing isn’t cheap. The cost includes the guide, porter, food, accommodation, flight, and permit. Yo includes a Sheru might need $500 more for personal expenses and tips. Since this is not an actual mountain climb but a practice peak, the cost of the Ama Dablam climb is low compared to other mountain peaks above 8,000 meters.

Ama Dablam Climb Difficulty

Ama Dablam Difficulty

There are a few objective risks from the base camp to Ama Dablam Camp 1 (5800M). Climbers should cross on rough stones after arriving at Camp 1. Straight after Camp 1, heading towards Camp 2, there is a fixed line. Climbers should carry their backpacks as a porter isn’t accessible here. From here onwards, the climb begins to get harder and riskier. There are multiple hurdles before reaching Yellow Tower.

Ama Dablam Camp 2 (6100M) sits on the highest point of Yellow Tower, which is a straight 80 – 90 degrees vertical trip. It is a 60 – 70ft vertical movement at a 20000ft level that isn’t easy. Camp 2 can house around 7 to 8 tents during the bustling season. It isn’t easy to find an optimal spot.

Climb to Ama Dablam Camp 3 (6400M) on the snow and ice that gather during spring. The Ama Dablam route goes from the rear of the tower, and climbers should cross on ice or rock chunks. After heading up, there are specific rockfall risks, mainly when other climbing groups are ahead. Rocks the size of a football (soccer) can fall, so additional consideration is required. The move-up is 70-80 degrees vertical to reach the solid edge. Most groups don’t stop at Camp Three and go to the Ama Dablam summit.

Loads of new and old fixed ropes can be found, especially while moving to the summit. Showing up underneath the pyramid, the highest point lies over the Dablam slants. Climbing further up on 55 – 65 degree slants is a straightforward walk. You can submit it in 10+ hours, assuming it is from Camp 2. The summit of Ama Dablam is vast and expansive. On a sunny morning, Mt. Everest, Makalu 8463M, and Baruntse 7129 m are seen.

Your ascension is half-done as of now. Abseiling down to camp three is direct. You must be back at Camp 2, where we plan our camp for the night.

Amadablam weather

Information on the weather in Ama Dablam is essential to planning an excellent trek to Nepal. Ama Dablam’s climate determines the ease with which you experience while trekking in a region. Nepal experiences four different seasons in the high mountains. Each of these seasons has different temperatures, vegetation, and challenges. However, trekking in different Ama Dablam weather has its perks. 

Winter (December to February): Winter is when the Himalayas cover themselves with a thick layer of snow, thus looking more beautiful than they ever did. The snowfalls commence in mid-January and lasts till December. The night temperature in the Ama Dablam trek can fall below -14 degrees Celsius, while days are also freezing (- -1 degree Celsius). It’s especially harsh in the mornings and nights. It snows for about three days, and the trail is full of snow in late January and February.  

Spring (March to May): This is the peak season for the Amadablam trek. After a harsh winter, the temperature starts to rise. In April, the day temperature will be about 5 degrees, while the night can still be on the brink of freezing. However, March still has snow in the higher paths. By May’s end, even the upper areas are pretty harmed. The Spring weather in the Ama Dablam trek is exceptionally stable, with no rain and snow.

Monsoon (June to September: The occasional rain in the Ama- Dablam Base Camp is experienced. The monsoon begins in mid-June and continues until mid-July. Most of the rain pours in the evening and morning. Still,

The nights are warm, with temperatures above 3 degrees Celsius and about 13 degrees during the daytime.

Autumn (September to November): Heat, clear sky, and better views of the Himal make Autumn a magical time. The rain stops after the monsoon, and nature is apparent. The temperature also remains above the melting point at night. Only in November does the night temperature in Ama Dablam fall below -2 degrees. The day temperature is about 4 degrees.